I do recall loading up two big suitcases with frozen turkeys (this was LONG before the current weight and size restrictions) and flying into Tahiti just before the Thanksgiving Holiday. My friends at the Bali Hai Hotel in Moorea had requested them for a special version of their weekend "fete" (feast). This was an ongoing tourist attraction that included traditional Tahitian dancers and a feast of roast pork and other items cooked in the "hima'a" or buried cooking pit. This time, for Thanksgiving, the idea (and I am not quite sure who's it was) was to cook some turkeys in the same manner. The buried pit usually provided a wonderful smoked flavor to the pork, so it was thought that the same could be done with the turkeys. It actually turned out extremely well and was also a special treat for many of the Tahitian locals who had never eaten "dindon" (French word for "turkey")
But this tale is of a different time and a different place..............
On one of my trips to my favorite city in the world, Venice, Italy, I had not thought, in my planning, that I would be visiting during the week of Thanksgiving. I had gotten the best flight schedule at a good price and, as is my usual way of traveling, figured out the details AFTER the plans were made. As the day became closer, I decided to have a "special" meal at one of my favorite restaurants---Al Covo. Ristorante Al Covo was a short walk from the Palazzo where I traditionally stayed. I had eaten there previously and enjoyed the ambiance and wonderful food.
It is owned by Chef Cesare Benelli and his lovely (American) wife Diane. Though they specialized in seafood cuisine, they have a varied menu and I knew I could count on SOME combination of food that would satisfy my "Thanksgiving dinner" desired meal. (I remember having wild Pheasant there and knew, from a stay at a hotel in the Veneto plain area near Venice, that it was hunted and served in restaurants far more frequently than in the USA) SO----I made sure that they were open and available and scheduled my visit.
Now---unlike most of the USA, throughout Europe, dinner does not usually "get going" at restaurants until 8:30pm or later. By 9:30, a good restaurant is usually packed with people coming in for dinner for an hour or so after that. This is not to say that you cannot GO to a restaurant earlier, it is just rare to see too many people there before 8:00pm (In fact----I have found, from 7:15 until 7:45 is when you can usually find the waiters or maitre d standing outside in their aprons or suits, smoking a last cigarette, taking a break after setting up the restaurant and generally gossiping about the day)
I once went to a wonderful restaurant in Oderzo that was actually built on platforms over a Roman ruin. I got there early and, after inspecting the archaeological site, walked to the front counter and asked to be seated. It was about 7pm and there was no one else there. I was seated, but soon realized that I had ALL of the restaurant employees standing against the wall near the kitchen entrance, giving me the "evil eye!" NOT a mistake I did again!!
BUT---I will admit that I like to walk that "fine line" between coming in TOO early and disturbing their "prepping" the restaurant and coming in later with the crowd. Though it is entertainment in it's own to watch the activity and "ballet" of waiters and servers and "busboys" whirling around the patrons in a crowded restaurant, I prefer to sit and relax and absorb the special "feel" of a place. So, for my visit to Al Covo, I went for a walk along the Grande Canal and then headed toward the Arsenale area and the Ristorante.
Upon entering the restaurant, the counter and kitchen is on the left and the sitting area to the right. Diane was, as always, behind the counter and welcomed me in. She is always very kind and gracious and, speaking English, makes you feel welcome and relaxed with a combination of Italian "Buonasera/Good evening." The restaurant has a two leveled sitting area and, as there were only two other tables with people already seated, I chose one near the side wall, on the next level up from the floor.
After I was seated and comfortable, I looked around and found that a gentleman of about my same age, was sitting diagonally off to my left, on the next level down, facing me. I nodded at him when he looked my way and he smiled and raised his glass as a greeting. I cannot remember my exact selection but I do recall that it was a bit more than my usual and a bit more extravagant in the selection. I also ordered a glass of Prosecco to start and a bottle of my favorite Italian wine---from Sardinia.
As I settled in to my chosen meal, I could not help noticing that my "dinner companion" from across the room, was being brought numerous platters of food. Over and over, he would finish off one item, then drink some wine and adjust the large white napkin he had tucked into his shirt collar, and then go to work on the next selection delivered. He caught me looking at him one time, and I raised my glass and said "Salute!" and he smiled a big smile and ---dove right back in. It was an impressive display of the simple joy of enjoying great food without any hesitation. It made me feel good to watch him. Not only IN his enjoyment but it certainly put MY own thoughts of over-indulging during my selected Holiday feast in their place. He finally slowed down and then sat back and "ahhhhed." Diane went to his table and had a brief talk with him and when she returned, she brought him a small "snifter" glass----and then brought one of the same to me. "From your friend," she said, and indicated the man. "The finest grappa," she noted. I rose the glass high toward him and he nodded, did the same, and said "Per la vita" (To life!)
Indeed. As I walked home afterward, I thought of all of the meaning and reasons for enjoying such a wonderful "soddisfazione" (satisfaction) on Thanksgiving and laughed at the pure joy of it all.
"People who love to eat are always the best people" Julia Child
