When I first traveled to Tahiti in 1975, it pretty much looked like this painting by artist James Coleman. Not exactly but very close. The only "road" went around the edge of the island and was crushed coral. There were a number of dirt paths up into the valleys but you really could not call them "roads." Most houses were corrugated metal roofing or, even better, woven pandanus. Side walls were of bamboo tied together or simple cinder block. There were no glass windows---simply openings in the wall with sometimes a hinged board pulled up that could be dropped to cover the opening in case of severe weather. A very simple, easy life. For this Detroit raised boy who moved to L.A.at the ripe old age of 20, it was as primitive and "disengaged" as I could get.
When people would ask what it was like, I really would fumble and have a hard time describing life there. You just----lived. Most houses did not have electricity. NO one had hot water.There were only about a dozen cars on the island of Moorea where I visited. You really didn't need one. When you are living on an island that is approximately 35 miles around, you quickly find out that everything is about the same----no matter where you are on the island. Head off down the road for a walk or bike ride and you will have the ocean on the one side and the jagged mountain interior on the other. Coconut trees, mango, banana, passion fruit and assorted other tropical fruit are abundant. There are not big beaches because there are not big waves inside of the lagoon to create them with wave action. You will have open spaces of palm trees and hibiscus flowers and then a small village of huts and houses and a "Chinoise" (grocery store). A church and maybe a fabric store or hardware/fishing supply.....then, repeat. I stayed at a hotel that was very much "self inclusive." Not like now when they want to keep you at a resort with all kinds of extra activities simply to have your MONEY spent there. Then----it was all there really was, so the hotel was "it."
Life, for me, was---a run in the morning, a bike ride before breakfast, fresh fruit and coffee, a swim or snorkel, some lunch, a nap, a walk, sunset, fresh fish for dinner, fall asleep when you were tired---repeat.
After a few visits, I noticed things were changing quickly. To accommodate the visit of the French President (Tahiti---"French Polynesia" being a French "protectorate"), they had paved the road from the airport where he landed to the village of Pao Pao---which was the island "capital." It was my habit to rest up with a nap or two on the first day I had arrived and then go for a walk at night to soak up the island "vibe." There were no lights on the road, but then, there were really no cars, so nothing to worry about. I would take off my sandals and walk barefoot. You could sense the edge of the road with your bare feet even if it was pitch black. You couldn't get lost either. Walk for a few miles along the edge and then turn around and come back---done! I would watch for the candle or lantern light off in the jungle showing where a house was hidden. Or maybe come along a few guys sitting out by the side of the road playing guitar.
On one of my return night walks, a bluish light off in the jungle. I had noticed a few houses running generators for, I had been told, refrigerators but wondered about the "blue light." For a people that lived by the sunlight, I found it REALLY odd for the need of ANY electric light. When I asked, I was told----television had come to Moorea. Only one channel---from New Zealand---which meant in English! BUT, as I found out when I visited a friends "fare" (Tahitian for "house"), here were 3 or 4 Tahitians sitting around staring at the television. Enraptured and watching something they could not even understand.......oh well.....
SO! One of the things that I completely understood, because, oddly, it was something I had grown up with in Detroit was the "Sunday Drive." After church, dressed up in ALL of their finery and the ladies in gorgeous woven hats, they would pile into the back of a pickup truck---sometimes what looked like 10 or 12 people---and drive around the island! Now-----a 35 mile around island would provide, even at about 20mph and with a stop or two, only about a 2 hr drive---MAX!! BUT---they would drive around and around---all day long! Stop for some fruit or maybe a swim. Say hello to some friends or gather some flowers. Trade fruit for fish or even select treats from a roadside stand. I joined some friends on one of these wanders and, after a few trips around, it had a mesmerizing kind of dreamy effect. Sun and shade and breeze and laughter. I found that I "got" the whole experience and understood the great party mood that set in.
There was no hesitation what so ever from my girlfriend, Valiane, when I asked if I should rent a car (yes, by that time you could do that---even though they were basically someones "extra" vehicle that "may or may not" last through the day!) one Sunday so that we could participate in the Sunday "promenade." She was, as seen in the photo, a fairly jovial person anyway and would end up playing and laughing every day about ANYTHING but a ride? on a Sunday? Perfect!
On one of the drives around, she pointed out two spearfishermen coming out of the lagoon with, what looked like, a full dripping net "sack" they were dragging in the water. I noted that area and on our next "tour" watched for that location. Sure enough, as we came around a slight curve near where I thought we had seen them, Valiane pointed out a "chalkboard" sign on the side of the road-----"Langouste/salade/vin--22,000" That translated to "Lobster/Salad/Wine"--(about) $15 US!
Valiane turned to me wide eyed at the same time I said "Bien Sur!!" (Of Course!!) We had found our dinner "spot." On our next time around, we stopped at my bungalow and showered and changed clothes and headed out HOPING they would be open. When we got back to the same location, we were surprised to see no cars. We parked and walked down a little sand path toward a house that had some picnic type tables set up to one side and tiki torches lit. A BIG Tahitian guy was standing over by 2 barrel grills and greeted us happily. We were informed that, yes, these were what they had caught out of the lagoon that day and that, yes, the meal included (of course!!) baguette bread, fresh green salad w/vinaigrette, our choice of white or red wine, AND split grilled spiny lobster---all you can eat/fixed price!!
Valiane and I sat down at our own table, sand beneath our feet, under the palm trees, with the moon coming up and tiki torches to light our meal, and we had the most delicious, perfectly cooked and seasoned meal I could have ever hoped for! The lobster were split, as shown, and seasoned with diced chives and butter, then grilled open side down over a manzanita wood fire. Served with a bowl of coconut milk to dip in, they were delicious.
Valiane had long flowing hair down below her butt. She knew that I liked to see it free but there were times when she would look at me with a "I've gotta do this" look and tie it up into a "Victorian Ladies" bun on her head and "get serious!" This was one of those times!
We took our time and each had----3? 4? tails and salad and bread with butter and red wine. I kept looking around at the trees or the moon or Valiane laughing while she ate and thought "This could not be more perfect......"
I have been asked in my travels "What restaurant would you recommend" or " Where did you have the best_____?" and I can offer up "Try this" or "The fish was great here" BUT-------I have never had a more magical meal than that one on a Sunday night in Moorea some 35 years ago.
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